We went to a cafe in Condesa called El Maque for breakfast yesterday. They have conchas (sweet sugar crusted rolls) that I will dream about.  They are sweet but not too sweet, the bread part is like if white bread married a croissant and the sugar crust is light and sandy. The really good thing about these particular ones is that the crust is seamlessly stuck on the bread. With a lesser pastry the outer layer can flake off as you eat it. Not with these. It’s  totally sad that I won’t be able to take them home with me. You need to eat them when they’re fresh or they loose their fluffy softness.

The rest of breakfast was really good too. I got huevos revueltos and they came with a side of refried beans and chilaquiles, much better than homefries in my opinion.

After breakfast we walked to Chapultapec park to go to the Anthropology Museum. It was a bit of a hike and by the time we got there we needed some refreshment so we bought 2 cokes and a water and sat outside for a bit. We went inside the museum, ready for some culture and found we didn’t have enough money to get in (and they don’t take credit cards)! If we hadn’t bought the stupid sodas we would have had enough! The ATM at the museum was broken and we were in the middle of the park, really far from a bank, so we decided to just walk back to our apartment and that’s when we saw these guys climbing up a pole outside the museum.

One by one four men dressed in bright red and white outfits climbed up this 100 foot pole and then sat in a square crows nest at the top. Once they were up there they seemed to be doing something with ropes as anticipation grew in the crowd below. Finally a fifth man climbed up the pole and sat in the middle of the crows nest. And then the four original guys gently slid off the railing head first attached by ropes around their waists.

The fifth man played a little flute as the crows nest slowly turned. The ropes were wrapped around the top of the center of the pole so as the crow’s nest turned more rope was let out and the upside down flying men got closer and closer to the ground. Once they were almost to the earth they each sat up in their rope seat and landed on their feet.

It was actually calm and peaceful to watch once you got over the shock of seeing them upside down in the air. After some interneting I’ve discovered that it’s an ancient Totonac dance and their proper name is the “Voladores de Papantla”. You can read more about them here. So even though we couldn’t get into the museum we still were able to see something really neat.

After we got back to our apartment it went from being a sunny beautiful day to a menacing storm in a matter of minutes and we were glad we made it home before the rain (this is a view from our deck). Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining, it’s 104 degrees in NYC right now so this is just perfect.

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